I leave everything set to automatic, which gets me the sharpest pictures the fastest. Choose AF-C for shots of mobile subjects. For erratic subjects that move in and out of the frame, Auto-area AF might work the best, while for subjects you can easily track, Dynamic-area AF might be a better choice. Instead of going through the whole menu again, let me show you the settings that differ for each user setting on my Nikon Z6. I will first provide my values, then talk about the most important settings: While there are a lot of different settings here, do not worry you wont be changing many settings very often. The next setting is Focus tracking with lock-on, which I normally keep at the default setting of 3 for Blocked shot AF response. I would also skip the whole Timers/AE lock sub-section, aside from perhaps the Self-timer option, which I normally set to either 2 or 5 seconds. For me, the key button is Fn1, which I set to AE lock (Hold), so that I can easily lock my exposure with a single press of a button. It goes to sleep and wakes automatically. In English, it means it's sharpening coarse details, not the usual fine details we expect. If you have not read our articles on the Focus and Recompose technique and Back-Button Focusing, now is a good time to do it, because it explains this feature in detail. If you shoot sports or wildlife, the Z6 II has a couple of menu settings to limit the number of focusing options. I'd also get it at Amazon, at B&H or at Crutchfield. I use U3 in my studio with manual exposure with my high-powered studio strobes. If you do this a lot, program one of your function buttons to this feature. See all the details at Nikon FTZ Compatibility & Review. If you are planning to use the connectivity features of the camera to send images to a smartphone, a tablet, or a PC, you will find all the available menu options here, as well as other options such as enabling touch controls on the LCD. No worries, I make a point of tapping the shutter to wake my Z6 every time before I bring it to my eye and thus it's always ready to go. Links White Balance is Auto and all other settings like Picture Controls, Active D-Lighting, HDR, etc. Automatic brightness control is poor. Settings for 3.1 I have 3.1 and I dont find any settings for load. If the EVF does not detect an object at proximity, it goes blank, while the LCD will not do anything until I fire up the camera menu or playback an image. I set mine to 1/1000 to catch fast action, but I recommend changing this setting depending on what you shoot. The ISO button allows quick change of ISO with the rear dial, and the front dial allows switching Auto ISO on and off. Similarly, you can also use the Self-timer feature, although Self-timer does not have such short delays as 0.2 seconds (the minimum is 2 seconds). If you have shaky hands, you can change the Minimum shutter speed Auto to be one step closer to Faster, which basically doubles the minimum shutter speed. The setting that is responsible for that is Apply settings to live view and thats the one I recommend to keep turned on. You should keep this turned off by default because turning it on will engage the electronic shutter (and you should only use the electronic shutter for non-moving subjects). However, if focus accuracy is more important to you than FPS, then the Focus option is going to be the way to go. I use my U3 mode for sports or maybe for manual-focus lenses. Now obviously the best ISO setting on the Z6 & Z6ii is the Native ISO 100 setting or the setting you need to capture your footage or photograph but did you know that the Nikon Z6 series has a built-in dual ISO setting? In addition, the Z6 has a better low-light sensitivity range of -3.5 to 19 EV vs -2 to 19 EV. Am I missing something here? I really enjoyed your Guide and clear explanations. If you have not read our articles on the Focus and Recompose technique and Back-Button Focusing, now is a good time to do it, because it explains this feature in detail. I too hope that they will allow combining the live histogram with the meter (ideally a simplified version thereof) in a future firmware. In Continuous AF (AF-C) there are YELLOW boxes around found faces, and RED boxes around whatever's being tracked. Ken Rockwell. I am not going to go through the movie recording features, because it highly depends on what you are trying to do. I take a setting off auto only if it's not doing what I want it to do. document.getElementById("ak_js_1").setAttribute("value",(new Date()).getTime()); document.getElementById("ak_js_2").setAttribute("value",(new Date()).getTime()); Hello Nasim. So if you do not have a camera remote (remote cable release) with you, you can use this feature to reduce camera shake and it works really well. This is a huge oversight on behalf of Nikon engineers, something I wish was done before the original Z6 and Z7 were released. If you wish to make a printout for personal use, you are granted one-time permission only if you PayPal me $5.00 per printout or part thereof. By default the Z6 shows you the effects of your exposure and picture control settings (contrast, color etc.) The Controls section is something I always change on my Nikon cameras because there are some time-saving features there. The palm tree is blowing all over in the wind; don't expect it to be museum-sharp. It is best to leave the AF-C priority selection at the default Release option, so that the camera takes a picture even if the subject is not in focus. Ricci Talks 42K subscribers Subscribe 2.6K 140K views. Sorry, Im a newbie . Experiment with this one, but go easy on it until you master it. I've programmed my Z6 U1 mode for nature, landscapes and all photos of things. My menu settings are very different I start off with more critical things like Focus Mode, AF-area mode, Metering, and Bracketing. Autofocus systems are also a bit different, with the Nikon Z6 sporting a total of 273 focus points and Z7 having 493. It is a neat feature that I always use by default on all of my cameras. The 24-70mm f/4 is the perfect lens for this camera, and you undoubtedly will want the FTZ adapter to use other Nikon lenses you probably already own. Instead of specifying ISO for every shot, I just have it set on Auto, with its base ISO set to 100, Maximum sensitivity set to 12800 (my personal limit for acceptable noise levels), and Minimum shutter speed set to Auto. If you'd like to set your Z6 exactly as I set mine, simply download my personal NCSET002.BIN file on your computer and copy it to the top-level of an XQD card in an XQD card reader (don't put it in the DCIM or any other folder). Weird. It will eventually unstick itself. Im thinking of purchasing the Z6ii and shoot real estate. This will copy the settings over to your camera. LIBIS ne fonctionne oas avec ladaptateur FZ, seul lantivibration de la lentille est en fonction. Je nai pas ce ressenti avec Nikon Z6II et ce meme zoom et adaptateur FTZ. Using Save/load settings is for all those settings buried in the camera's menu system where the Save/load settings can save the day. The AF activation setting on my Nikon Z6 II is always set to OFF (AF-ON only) to allow me to use the dedicated AF-ON button on the back for focusing. Here, you can pick your favorite selections for each assignable button. See also Nikon's own printed Z6 User's Guide. There's no limit to the minimum, shoot at ISO 100 if you like, but for ISO 102,400 (Hi1.0) or 204,800 (Hi2.0) you'll have to use the regular shutter. Remember, RAW files contain non-manipulated data and require post-processing, so the above settings only impact images displayed by your cameras LCD screen (each RAW file contains a full-size JPEG image, which is what is used to display images on the LCD) and if you use Nikons proprietary software like Capture NX-D, those settings can be applied to RAW images automatically. on January 28, 2021. 273 AF points. Once you download the file, please copy it to the root folder of your memory card, then put the memory card into your Nikon Z6 II and go to Menu -> Setup Menu -> Save/load settings -> Load settings. You may prefer to set the finder brightness manually. This is also the best option if your subject is likely to move closer or further away from your camera in the time it takes you to focus and recompose. California Desert Home, 22 June 2019, 8:50-8:52 PM. Has it been removed or is it called something else? By default, you probably want to set your camera to what you see is what you get mode, so that changes to your exposure are visible on the EVF and the LCD. Thank you! I wont go into Bracketing/flash sections, because thats a big topic on its own. You can use Nikon software utility and check if you can save your images in any other format. I use the stores I do because they ship from secure remote warehouses where no one gets to touch your new camera before you do. The Street & Travel settings are the choice you make when you want to configure your Nikon Z6/Z7/D850 for fastest response time. The Auto minimum shutter speed setting is great, because it reads the focal length of the attached lens and automatically adjusts the minimum shutter speed to the focal length of the lens. The Controls section is something I always change on my Nikon cameras, because there are some time-saving features there. If you find this page as helpful as a book you might have had to buy or a workshop you may have had to take, feel free to help me continue helping everyone. I use U1 for places and things, U2 for people and U3 for action, and yours will be for whatever you prefer to shoot. Poo! My camera can make all the ISO and exposure and focus adjustments faster than I can, once I've programmed the camera to do this itself. I personally send my gear into Nikon each year to be serviced. Nikon Z7 with W-NIKKORC 3.5cm f/1.8 (1956~1964). tkr, isofix, abs, asr, esp, bi xenon, kdlmpa, gyri alufelni vjrat: 2006 . Up to 12 fps. Being able to quickly access critical camera settings is very important for me, so I chose the ones above for that reason. While the Z6 II shares the body and ergonomics of its predecessor, there are numerous internal changes that have been implemented to make it a very compelling choice among mirrorless cameras today. The only thing I would do is set up Image comment and Copyright information. Set this at MENU > PHOTO SHOOTING MENU (camera icon) > Auto bracketing > and choose which kind of bracketing you want. Don't get the FTZ for use with traditional AF-D, AF or manual-focus lenses. Press the rear button, select the bottom row and then the third box from the left, and it should be at Matrix metering. My menu settings are very different I start off with more critical things like Focus Mode, AF-area mode, Metering, and Bracketing. I have it turned off in the menu above, so that those who dont read this section or download the settings file do not end up panicking when their camera doesnt focus using the shutter release button. Est-ce moi le probleme ? Super-fast and accurate focus acquisition is achieved by the Nikon Z6 II's ultra-wide hybrid autofocus system. Instead of specifying ISO for every shot, I just have it set on Auto, with its base ISO set to 100, Maximum sensitivity set to 12800 (my personal limit for acceptable noise levels on the Z6) and Minimum shutter speed set to Auto. Lets now go through the Shooting Menu, which is the first place that I usually go to when checking my settings. By default, Number of Shots is 0 Frames, meaning no bracketing. Excellent. If you shoot sports or wildlife, the Z6 has a couple of menu settings to limit the number of focusing options. So if you do not have a camera remote (remote cable release) with you, you can use this feature to reduce camera shake and it works really well. The options shown on the screen are customizable, which is great (more on how I customize this screen below). Nagykijelzs navigci, tempomat, multikormny, start stop indits, dupla digit klima, 4x el ablak, el. Set these at MENU > Wrench (Setup) > Copyright Information > and MENU > Wrench (Setup) > Image Comment, and be sure to set all of the IMAGE COMMENT, ARTIST and COPYRIGHT fields. If you want to completely eliminate Shutter Shock, you will need to make sure that the camera can automatically switch between Electronic Front-Curtain Shutter (EFCS) and mechanical shutter. When switching to shoot portraits, some of the settings such as Auto ISO and face recognition should be turned on. VR should be set to Sport instead of Normal in this mode. When shooting landscapes I can use the EVF for hand-held shooting, and when I am shooting from a tripod, the LCD is automatically turned on. Larry A comment on digital photography - "Red is gray and yellow white, but we decide which is right ..and which is an illusion" Moody Blues - Nights in White Satin Lets now go through the Shooting Menu, which is the first place that I usually go to when checking my settings. 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